The Sun Sets On The Crescent City

Ah Bourbon Street, you crazy monkey. Who'd have thought you'd actually be more likeable on a Friday night?! Not likeable enough for me not to be back in the hotel room by 8:30pm but more likeable than before. 

That's actually been New Orleans in a nutshell for us, it has definitely grown on us as we've gone along. We commented today that we feel content with the place, like our feelings towards Philadelphia or Boston, we liked the place a lot but we've had enough time here. There's enough left that if we ended up back here we'd still have things to explore and would have a good time but we wouldn't schedule a return visit in the foreseeable future. (I liked New Orleans and Boston but love Philadelphia though.)

Today was quite a lazy day, as we decided that we really needed to catch up on sleep, which we very successfully did. A little too successfully perhaps as we didn't wake up until after 10... Oops. 

As I've mentioned it to everyone I've ever met, I have a Bachelor of Arts that featured an Honours Year in American Studies and I have a huge nerd love for American history. One of my major topics of interest is the American Civil War and New Orleans has a museum dedicated to the Confederate Army which is a perspective you don't often get so I wanted to visit it. We decided to try walking slowly in the direction of the museum and if we got there we got there. 

We made a detour on the way to the French Market for lunch, as I've come to a stunning and horrible realisation - you can have too much of a good Creole/Cajun food thing - and we both wanted something simple. Grilled cheese sandwiches sorted that out!

After realising that we were just near the start of a Streetcar line that would take us near where we wanted to go, we decided to cheat and catch that! (Unfortunately the streetcar was not called Desire). So we got to the museum quite easily. 

The greeter at the Confederate surprised me as he mentioned that Australians were easily the most common international visitors at the museum. Apparently we stay longer in the city. (Americans seem to not really get holidays, with people employed long term casual so leave is unpaid, based on the people we've spoken to (not necessarily a strong sample!) (A waitress tonight actually said that she's worked out that Americans think they have the greatest country in the role but every time she speaks to an Australian she realises that ours is much cooler. :))

The museum was small but impressive. It didn't really try and push a a South good, North bad agenda that reviews suggested it did. It was full of personal effects including those of Jefferson Davis, President of the Confederacy. 

A slow wander back to the French Quarter really reminded us that New Orleans is made up of so many varied different neighbourhoods with their different histories and identities in quite a small space (it's about the same size as Adelaide.)

Oh speaking of Adelaide - "props" to the American couple who seriously asked another Australian couple on the tour yesterday if we knew each other because we were both from the same place.  Uh yeah...

Dinner tonight was on Bourbon Street, in a restaurant called Channing Tatum's Saints and Sinners. Sadly Channing was not in attendance. 

Now we're back in the hotel, packing and prepping for our journey to New York City tomorrow!! (Oh god I'm excited. I feel like I'm going home!). Funny we've only been gone a week, and we still have a month to go but it feels like things are racing and there's a tinge of sadness that we're already two places down. Sadness replaced by the thought that NYC is almost here!

So goodbye from the Big Easy and I'll speak to you next from the Big Apple!

Plantations and Rainbow Connection

Any day you don't get eaten by an alligator is a good day, so today was a good day.

Today was near entirely dedicated to an Experience Cajun Country day tour. Which in hindsight is an oddly chosen name as the first two of three events/visits were about Creole culture (People born in the New Orleans, mostly of European or African descent, prior to the Civil War (ish)) and only the last bit was Cajun. (People from or descending from a French Settlement in Canada - where Nova Scotia is now.)

...The more you know...

Basically, it was a visit to two Creole plantations and then a boat ride on a bayou/swamp.

The two plantations - Laura and Oak Alley were obviously similar but also quite different. Laura was more a story of a family, and was a multicoloured home (painting your house in bright colours was a signal that you were a French speaking Creole. English speaking Anglo residents of New Orleans ans the area had homes painted all white. ) It was not really what springs to your mind when you think of plantation homes. The plantation is being lovingly restored by a family after years and years of neglect, and still processes sugar cane. It felt more real.

Oak Alley was the grand home you expect out of a movie like Gone With The Wind. Although also Creole, it was painted white to fit in, and the front is framed by a half mile (I think) of oak trees. It was absolutely stunning. It made me want to run around in a hoop skirt, and corset yelling for Rhett and Ashley. It was certainly the more commercial of the two places, and has featured in movies like Interview With A Vampire and Beyonce's Déjà Vue video.

What is obviously noticeable in both properties are slave cottages. I took photos like the tourist I am, and oddly I think thinking about them went in my can't process basket, so I just saw it as a piece of history.  No matter even with physical evidence in front of me, I couldn't believe that slavery occurred. That humans treated humans with that cruelty as if it should be completely normal. I think I just switched off. Thinking back now, I feel more nauseous.

Both plantations are definitely worth a visit though for the history and they are beautiful. Oak Alley is the sort of place that makes you gasp from the pretty.

After that we drove into "Cajun country" and got on a little barge style boat and went for an hour bayou cruise, looking at the scenery and throwing marshmallows at alligators. Seriously. When an alligator swam up, it would get a treat or two by the captain.  When the first one swam towards us, I went into mini meltdown and was frozen to my seat while everyone else stood up to get a better look. After I realised the alligators were way more interested in candy than Courtney, I joined in and started willing them closer so I could photograph them!

The bayou was also a pretty peaceful ride, although the petrol fumes from the boat were quite strong, so maybe I was just passing out.

This was a day I'd been really looking forward to, because it would be completely new experiences and it was really good. I didn't much like the overall guide (although all the guides at the locations were excellent) but I'd definitely recommend both experiences.

Oh and the day ended with a really cute waiter at Hard Rock Cafe, who got an extra percent on his tip just for that reason. I am dreadfully shallow at times!

Last full day in NOLA tomorrow. It'll be a lazy one as we make sleep catch up a priority!

A New Attitude to New Orleans

This blog is disjointed because I originally fell asleep writing it, (it's a worry that it may be so dull even I couldn't stand it) and I'm restarting it at 4:30 in the morning. Aaron and I have developed this lovely pattern of jet lag where we can't seem to sleep at the same time. He can't sleep at all till about 3:30am, at which point I seem to wake up and lie awake for hours while he instantly goes to sleep.

Okay, I did call a dislike for New Orleans too early. Bourbon Street is still a wretched hive of scum and villainy but walking around more revealed much prettier places that felt safer, even just a street away. It was also a lovely spring day which made things seem much brighter.

A city bus tour this afternoon proved that the history and pretty is also continued in other parts of the city. The Audabon and Garden Districts are gorgeous, filled with varied style antebellum (pre-Civil War) houses and evergreen trees. Also away from the French Quarter was the huge but not creatively named City Park. It looks a great place to explore, with all different pockets from football stadiums to  mini golf to kids playgrounds and the museum of art.

Also included was a brief stop at one of the cemeteries. The cemeteries in New Orleans are above ground due to water levels, so every grave is it's own family mausoleum. They are known as the Cities of the Dead as they are laid out in streets. It makes for great photos but feels very strange.

After the tour ended on Canal Street, and my first ever visit to an Arby's - which was actually yummy, we visited the Voodoo Museum near our hotel.  It's a very small museum, but I found it genuinely interesting. My knowledge of voodoo is limited to dolls and James Bond films so it was interesting to see it's origins and learn more about the religion behind it. I hadn't realised it was actually intended to work alongside Catholicism for example.

Then a trip to Cafe du Monde. The first and most famous coffee stand/cafe in New Orleans. Famous for its Cafe Au Lait (half coffee and half milk) and beignets (French doughnuts). Obviously I didn't partake in the coffee (blergh) but did manage to force down a beignet.... or three and the kilogram of icing sugar they are coated in. We asked if we should share and was told some did, some didn't so we we ended up getting a share each. Turns out you get a lot for $2.42 and in theory we could have shared one serve. I say I theory because I'm quite sure Aaron and I would have probably had to divorce after the inevitable fight over the third one. They are that good. Similar to churros in texture but softer.

We did a quick wander around the French Marker after, I'm debating buying some of the spices here, just debating whether customs will approve.

Speaking of spices, food is delicious in New Orleans. It's spicy without being too hot, and if you prefer it hotter, there are hot sauces everywhere. We've been trying to eat as many classics as we can. Tonight's dinner was chicken and andouille sausage gumbo (a chunky soup served with rice) and po boy sandwiches. Aaron had a sausage one, and me a beef. I was beaten by the po boy as it was so big. Gumbo especially is so good. We haven't even had a proper dessert here yet because the mains (btw for a reason I don't know - mains are called entrees in the US, as opposed to Australia where what we call an entree is a starter here) is so warm and satisfying.

Actually one other tidbit about New Orleans is that we are the only Australians I've noticed here, in fact we are basically the only non-American accent. It's clearly a popular place to visit for Americans, but international guests come at other times of the year.

Today when it's officially wake up time, we're off on a plantation and swamp tour. I plan on channeling my best Scarlett O'Hara at the plantation.

Trying to go back to sleep now. Take care!

The Big Sleazy

Had I written this blog a few hours earlier, it would have been a lot different, but having watched the latest episode of Agents of Shield and having a stomach full of jambalaya I'm much more content.

The day started well, as well any can that involves a visit to the hell dimension that is LAX. Tip, always add at least half an hour to your expected time there. The queues are horrendous. What wasn't horrendous was the flight to New Orleans. My only previous experience with Delta involved three days of chasing up my suitcase so expectations weren't high however they were excellent, very personable, funny and the service was great. In a three hour flight we had two full complimentary drink services (you had to buy alcohol) and almost all you can eat pretzels/peanuts and/or cookies. You could choose a combo or just one. The cookies. Oh my goodness the cookies. They are these cinnamon golden syrup biscotti dreams. I may have secured a supply for the next few days. 

Anyhow, so we arrived at New Orleans. Holy humidity Batman. There are actual tornado warnings for counties not far away from New Orleans, so it's to be expected and if that's the worst thing that's great, but ugh. I have no tolerance for humidity. None. 

The hotel is lovely, the room is petite but nicely furnished, and free wifi. Hurrah. 

However, we're not sold on location. It is right on Bourbon Street. The party street of New Orleans. (Our room is thankfully on other side of the hotel.) Yet unlike somewhere like Vegas which is also party all day and night yet still clean and safe feeling, Bourbon during the day is a trashy wasteland. Straggling people wandering around drinking, or beggars. Now I am a conservative, prudish, sheltered mid thirties princess so I may be overlooking the fun but I really don't think it would appeal to many people as we saw it this afternoon.

We did stop for a late lunch at Willie's Chicken Shack, as we felt fried chicken was a good place to start for our Southern food journey. It was good. 

We walked in the other direction and found other streets in the French Quarter that were more pleasant and walked down to see the banks of the Mississippi. Unfortunately while there we ran into a beggar, who poured liquid over Aaron's shoes (sneakers!) and started trying to shine them, while telling us it was going to cost $10 for a shoe shine. I hate confrontation and was feeling jumpy so basically threw $2 at him and we scurried off. At that point Aaron and I decided to just hide out in the hotel as we were feeling really flat. 

... Hang on... Wiping Delta cookie crumbs from the table...

After hiding in our hotel, while I watched Food Network and Agents Of Shield, we decided to brave the streets again and head out for a late dinner (our stomachs are still on LA time...and full of cookie). We ended up at a great Creole/Cajun restaurant called the Original Pierre Masperos. The building it is in was built in 1788, and had been used as a pirate hideout by the Lafitte Brothers and used by them to discuss the plans for the Battle of New Orleans with Andrew Jackson in the 1812 War. We had super delicious blackened jambalaya with grilled chicken. Delicious.

Oddly,  the area felt safer and nicer at night as there were more people around and the party atmosphere seemed appropriate. It was also still hot so we could wander a little (where there was light and people!) So we are feeling more positive about New Orleans now. It's still unlikely to be a place I end up really liking but I'm not sitting on the hotel bed feeling sad anymore.

Tomorrow we have a city tour and I'm going on a hunt for beignets. :)

LA, You're A-Ok

It was our final full day in LA today, and it was a good one.

LA gets quite a bad reputation, and yes it's more obviously grimy than other cities but it really does have some real things to love about it and we found a new one today. The Warner Bros Studio Tour.

I'd been previously a little reluctant to go on a studio tour (Universal doesn't count for me for some reason) but I wanted something to do today that was easy and reasonably quick. I've never had the desire to drive past celebrity houses, unless Bradley Cooper wants to invite me in and speak French to me) so this studio tour fit the bill.

Reading reviews of the tour, there was a heavy mention a lot of shows that I wasn't interested in - Pretty Little Liars, Hart of Dixie etc so I wasn't expecting a huge amount but there was a lot of things of my era (a clearly ancient era, as earlier demonstrated by while waiting for the tour pick up, we got caught in a mini mob scene over a former Disney star turned singer - Austin someone or rather and we had no idea who he was). I may have squealed at the sight of the morgue from Pushing Daisies and props from the Veronica Mars movie.

(Meh, I'm trying to add a photo here and it's refusing to play nice. So just imagine me standing with Veronica Mars stuff - see Facebook for actual photo.)

Sorry, I'm watching The Blacklist while typing this so I'm being easily distracted. So what is Tom up to?!

It's genuinely interesting to see the creativity that goes into film masking, especially the vision of the designers who can think how to revise sets from one thing to another.

We got to see the soundstage that Two Broke Girls is filmed in and saw the main sets. It's funny to see how small they are. Aaron was most disappointed that he didn't get to see Kat Dennings. That was the only part of the tour we couldn't take photos of. We could take photos in another set though, the set of Central Perk from Friends. Did you know that the actor who played Gunther was only ever intended as an extra, but they needed someone who could use the coffee machine for a scene and he could. The rest is side character history.

Oh and because it's me, I had to pose with Daffy Duck and Bugs Bunny statues on the way out.

After refreshing in the hotel, we then went to Morton's in Beverly Hills (except it's not actually in Beverly Hills as far as I can tell).  We had the best ever dining experience there a few years ago and hoped to repeat it. And oh my goodness, the food was so good. The best mashed potatoes and the fillet steak was cooked to perfection. It was the real hero of the dish.

So an early start tomorrow morning, as we fly from LA to New Orleans, a place we haven't seen before which I'm hoping to really love.

Ooh Alda and Spader in a tense scene together, fabulous.

Off to bed to get up for that flight. Night!!

Sugar High.

Today's guest bloggers were going to be my legs, however after spending 6 hours walking around LA (noting how unfit I am) my legs have sulked off to the corner, just glaring at me. The only words they seem to be capable of aren't repeatable so I've cancelled their appearance.

Our hotel is about a 20 minute easy walk to the Grove LA and the Farmer's Market. The Grove has a Cheesecake Factory. The strawberry lemonade at the Cheesecake Factory is very possibly my very favourite thing in the world. So us heading to the Grove at some point on this visit was a foregone conclusion. We got to the Grove (fancy shopping mall - often featured on TMZ!) about 11:15, thought it was a little early for lunch and so had the very difficult task of hovering in the giant Barnes and Noble bookstore next door.

Oh Barnes and Noble. I love you, I could spend forever in you.

After half an hour, we went next door, we were very quickly seated on the balcony (weather is gorgeous here). If you've seen the photos on my Facebook, please note our mains (meatloaf and shepherd's pie) were the SMALLER lunch size. The portions are insane. Also insane was the Oreo Exreme Dream Cheesecake I attempted for dessert. It beat me, but be assured I put up a big fight. It was heaven in a spoonful.

After browsing around more and a visit to the Farmer's Market we decide to walk another 15 minutes to the La Brea Tar Pits and LACMA (LA something something Art). Some excellent photo opportunities to be had. There's something amazing about palaeontology work happening in the middle of LA.

We slowly strolled back to the hotel after that, slowly because my legs had begun their campaign of hatred against me.

Tonight we've just grabbed a pizza and brought it back to the hotel, as I hadn't watched HGTV in about 8 hours and I was missing watching people browse property on shoestring budgets with huge wish lists.

Really, today was all sugar. And frankly, I'm okay with that.

G'day LA

Hello from California :)

I started drafting this blog on the plane, but reading back, and considering I was realising we weren't even halfway when I started the draft, it's fuelled with grumpy thoughts so I've scrapped it.

So long story/flight long. The flight was okay. It's over 14 hours it's pretty much what you imagine what it was like.

Today has been dedicated to food and sleep! Oh and a little shopping.

We had early check in at our hotel - the Sofitel - which I've decided is probably my favourite ever hotel - which was great for a refresh. This room has the best shower - one of those giant showerheads that hangs from the ceiling.

Then we celebrated our arrival with lunch at Johnny Rockets. For those unaware, it's a chain of 50s style burger joints. It's really fun, and sets my America pop culture meter off. I had a Philly Cheesesteak, Aaron a burger and we both had floats (spiders as Australians may know them.) The floats were huge!

After that we went to the Beverly Center to browse the shops. By browse,  I mean Aaron was left in my dust trail as I ran towards Sephora, while giggling like a maniac. After Sephora (I was restrained and only bought something I actually needed), I mysteriously ended up in Macy's. I wasn't going to buy anything but there was a clearance rack and a Ralph Lauren jumper reduced from $109 to $36. I'm sure anyone would agree purchasing it was the only logical option.

After a nap, we went wandering around another shopping centre that had Target and Old Navy etc (no purchases) and then went to a nearby PF Chang's for dinner. That was a good choice, it was fresh and light but a great portion size so we had a good dinner.

Now, back in the hotel obsessively watching HGTV. No real plans for tomorrow. I suspect the Cheesecake Factory will feature.

(I'm having trouble posting things on Facebook so hopefully this works. )